We walked the East Highland Way, Glen Feshie and Lairig Ghru during April 2025. I walked this with my son and added Glen Feshie and the Lairig Ghru because we had some spare time. They’re also very special glens and were well worth the walk and this takes you into a very remote part of the Cairngorms. You need to be suitably prepared and self-sufficient. We wild camped every night and carried up to three days food.
The East Highland Way is not a National Trail or one of Scotland’s Great Trails. So it’s not well signed and you need to keep a close eye on navigation as there are not many sign post and it’s easy to miss a turn. The East Highland Way part of this walk is relatively easy walking, much like the West Highland Way. It’s mostly on good tracks, paths and quiet roads but there are fewer resupply and accommodation options. We both liked the East Highland Way a lot and found it very quiet. There was very few people walking it and the scenery was better than expected.
Day 1
We arrived in Fort William by train in late afternoon. The first few miles out of town is on footpaths beside busy roads, then track and a good path.
The above bridge was the first of many unexpected views on the East Highland Way. There was a bigger drop to a very cool river below. We had set off quite late in the day so were now looking for a camp, even though we hadn’t been walking too long.
Gear note; We all used the Inov8 Rocfly G 390 boots and Granite Gear Blaze rucksacks. 2 x Tarptent Notch tents and 1 x MSR Hubba NX tent.
There’s not many places to wild camping in the Leanachan Forest, especially as we’re looking for space for three tents. My daughter had joined us from Fort William to Spean Bridge. We eventually found space well off the path up in between the trees.
Day 2
The route doesn’t look particularly interesting on the map but it was better than expected and we enjoyed walk. It was so quiet and the views were pretty good, the road and railway line are hidden by the woodland. We reached Spean Bridge just in time to have a late breakfast in the café. There’s also a small shop here, to resupply if needed. It was strange to be here again and brought back great memories of walking through on my TGO Challenge in 2018.
After leaving Spean Bridge the route becomes more interesting and the path gets a little rougher. There was also a river crossing that may have been difficult if in spate. But its been so dry here that we didn’t even get wet feet.
There were numerous lovely options to wild camp around here and we stopped immediately after crossing in case it rained.
The A86 was relatively close and there was a small amount of road noise, but it didn’t spoil a great camp beside the river. We were both using the Tarptent Notch, they’re different colours because one is nylon and the other polyester. We’ve not found much difference between them. My review of the Notch Li is here and I will add my review of these when fully tested.
Day 3
It was a lovely start to the day, with a walk through woodland on a small but clear path. Then we were back to easy walking on good tracks again.
The scenery was unexpectedly good, helped by the better weather and we really were enjoying the walk today.
Then the day got even better as we reached Loch Laggan and just had to stop and take it all in. Warm sunshine and views.
The route stays pretty close to the Loch but it’s often hidden by the trees. The shade from the trees was welcome as it was unseasonably warm.
At the far end of Loch Laggan there was a large beach that we stopped on for dinner and to enjoy the sunshine. We could have camped on it but decided the sand would be a pain, sticking to everything, so found a spot in the trees.
This was an amazing place to spend the night, watching the sun set and wake up again.
Day 4
Today was a real mix of paths, tracks and quiet roads through forests and farmland.
Glen Banchor is a very really remote feeling part of the East Highland Way. There’s a bothy part way along that would be very welcome in bad weather.
There is another river crossings in Glen Banchor that could be difficult after heavy rain. In bad weather this Glen can be missed by walking on the road to Newtonmore, but this would be a shame as it’s a really nice part of the East Highland Way.
After a enjoyable walk through Glen Banchor we dropped into Newtonmore for a meal and a rest in the café. We made a mistake leaving Newtonmore by following an old route which is now closed. We walked out to the museum before turning north, we managed to get through but it’s not particularly safe or easy. It’s best to turn off earlier up the road to join the path to Loch Gynack.
It was getting late and had started to drizzle by the time we stopped and put the tents up. This was the first time we hadn’t sat out together and had dinner. A bit disappointing but it was nice to be in the dry when the heavy rain started. It’s not very nice putting wet clothes on in the morning.
Day 5
We were feeling very lucky to wake up to more stunning weather and amazing scenery. And it was a lovely walk past Loch Gynack and around into Kingussie.
It was nice to walk into Kingussie and still be early enough for breakfast. I like walking with my son because he’s always up early and fast to pack away. We sat in the café and discussed our options from here. There was only a days walk left on the East Highland Way and he had a few days holiday left. We’ve been tempted by the views of the snow capped Cairngorms around us. The rest of the East Highland Way route is mostly woodland and the only bit that would be a shame to miss was the pretty Loch an Eilein – Pictured below.
We went to Loch an Eilein after finishing our reroute, so we hadn’t missed out on one of the prettiest parts of the East Highland Way.
Glen Feshie and Lairig Ghru reroute
We resupplied in Kingussie after breakfast in the café and then set off following the East Highland Way. Shortly past the Ruthven Barracks we left the East Highland Way, going through the forest towards Glen Feshie. I was keen to walk this glen again because last time I was here it had rained, so I hadn’t been able to appreciate it. I had previously walked Glen Feshie in 2020 during my Dover to Cape Wrath walk. It’s also part of Cameron McNeish’s Scottish National Trail route.
Glen Feshie is beautiful this time of year and in good weather. I’d previously walked the road side of the river Feshie but it’s better on the other side. It’s a nice walk through the woods and gives you the chance to use the bothy, which would be an amazing place to spend the night. Walking this way also saves you getting wet feet crossing the river twice later on – if you can find the small path around.
Ruigh Aiteachain is the best bothy that I’ve come across, I think an estate run property. It was very well built, clean and unusually had toilets and an extremely large supply of firewood. There was also plenty of flat grass areas around the bothy for camping.
We continued on past the bothy for a few miles and tonight’s camp took some finding as it was well off the path. But was well worth the effort and among the best wild camping spots I’ve had.
Day 6
This had been an amazing place to spend the night, so peaceful, with just the sounds of the river and birds.
We set off early, staying on the North side of the river Feshie and managed to leave the track at the right time. The small path was very pretty and did cross a landslide at one point. But this meant we didn’t have to cross the river twice, so we kept dry feet.
Shortly after the landslide the path drops to the valley floor and joins the main track up the glen.
It was a lovely walk, gently climbing out of Glen Feshie and then an interesting experience crossing the river on a scaffolding bridge.
Luckily we had good weather on the long walk through here, as it looks and feels very remote. It’s a small but easy to follow path all the way to eventually join a track to the bothy.
The Red House bothy has just been renovated and was a empty shell when came through here the Scottish National Trail in 2019. The MBA now have it as a bothy and have done an amazing job converting it. This is another one of the best bothy’s around and now, even has composting toilets and storage building built behind.
We were tempted to stay but it was still early and we like quiet nights and views from the tents. This turned out to be a good decision as shortly after leaving the bothy we passed a number of people carrying plastic bags of alcohol etc, heading there for the night.
We followed the track towards the Linn of Dee for a few miles and then turned north into the Lairig Ghru. This is a lovely walk but there are very few wild camping opportunities in this glen.
We started out pitching our tents a long way apart on what we thought were the best places. But then had to move one because the bed area was so uneven. Shortly after finally sorting the tents it clouded over and rained, so we were pleased to be on high ground.
Day 7
It was a cold and overcast start to the day and a bleak feeling walk past the remote Corrour Bothy. There appears to be camping possibilities next to it but they didn’t look particularly level.
Still cold as we climbed to about 800 meters and arrived at the Pools of Dee, we decided to stop to make a hot coffee. It’s quite a rough rocky walk for a mile or so over the top here.
We enjoyed the walk through the Lairig Ghru, there’s some very big mountains all around. Also the skies cleared and the sun came out and views were stunning all around us.
We had a fantastic walk down to Aviemore, it’s a really pretty end to our East Highland Way, Glen Feshie and Lairig Ghru walk.
Further Reading
My Scottish National Trail walk – 25 days
My West Highland Way walk in 2019
A 19yr olds perspective of walking the West Highland Way
How I plan a long distance hike
Inov8 Roclite Mid boots review
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