Southern Upland Way – East to West

We walked the Southern Upland Way – East to West in April 2023. This post describes our walk, the route, scenery and wild camping. Setting off in April meant we had to deal with some high winds and freezing temperatures, but also meant – no midges.

The Southern Upland Way is one of Scotland’s Great Trails. It’s a 344km/214m coast to coast walk, taking between 10 to 16 days to walk and has around 7770 metres of ascent. It’s popular to walk it West to East, from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath due to the usual prevailing wind direction. When we set off the wind was unusually in the opposite direction, hence our decision to walk it East to West and start in Cockburnspath instead. This turned out to be a very good decision as we had the wind on our backs all the way across. Walking it in this direction also left, what we consider the best part of the walk at the end – the Galloway Forest.

Setting off

I walked the Southern Upland Way with my 23yr old son. We set off walking an hour or so before dark after spending the day travelling from South Wales to Dunbar by train and then a 15 minute taxi ride to Cockburnspath. There’s a good bus service if you time it better than we did.

Day 1

Camping above Pease Bay and the North Sea after only a mile walking from Cockburnspath, nice spot but pretty cold over night.

Really enjoyable walk up through the pretty Penmanshiel Wood and nice to have a dry start to the day.

Then after crossing the busy A1, a very enjoyable day walking on quiet roads, tracks and footpaths. There were a few showers but it was a really nice start to our walk through some lovely Scottish lowland boarders scenery.

We couldn’t pass this great camp spot by and it was perfectly timed as we were getting hungry. We stopped a little early but this did leave us time to have dinner, then relax and enjoy the views before it got dark..

Day 2

The Southern Upland Way has been really well sign posted and the paths have been relatively good, so far. So we’ve been very surprised by how few people there are about, it’s extremely quiet.

Fortunately day 2 was mostly dry, as we were walking over open moorland for much of the day. We’ve now left the east coast lowlands behind us and with the increasing height, have been more exposed to the elements all day. So were pleased with our decision to have started in the east and to have the chilly breeze on our backs instead of having to walk into it.

The sun came out for a while so we stopped for a long lunch and spread our tents out to dry. It was nice to be out of the breeze and be able to sit and enjoy the warmth from the sun. We were passing through some lovely rolling country side and well kept sheep fields. Even so it still felt very remote and peaceful.

We finally dropped off the path, to find a lovely place to camp by a river. We were now really starting to feel the remoteness of this walk and appreciate how empty and unspoilt the Southern Uplands are.

Day 3

It was a very cold night and we had ice on the tents when we packed away in the morning. But it didn’t take long to warm up once we got moving, it was a lovely clear and still start to the day. And it wasn’t long before we were feeling the heat from the sun.

It was a nice walk through Lauder and past Chirlestane Castle. We could have stopped for a meal and resupply here, but were too early and everything was still closed. We always carry plenty of spare food so we don’t have to worry about timings.

Above – my son is carrying a Granite Gear Blaze 60L rucksack with full camping gear and a weeks food. Read my review here. I used the ULA Catalyst 75L pack.

Today was another nice walk, through rolling countryside and dropping into valleys with patches of woodland again. Melrose was really nice and an ideal place to resupply or even have a rest day, as there’s so much to see.

Day 4

Another good camp spot and very cold night and frosty morning. The clear skies meant another nice day was on the way.

I like the UK spring with its crisp clear mornings like this and it was great to be up early and making the most of it. This is what makes long distance hiking and wild camping so worth while to me.

We were liking the Southern Upland Way more with every day, and the better weather was definitely helping.

Tents used are the Nordisk Telemark 2 and the MSR Hubba NX 1 person. Read my tent reviews here. Both tents were a good compromise between weight, space and strong enough for April in Scotland. I had blizzards last time I was here in April, on my Lands End to John O’Groats and 3 Peaks walk.

It was unusually difficult to find somewhere to camp tonight, but eventually found some flat spots on this hillside. They were not that close to each other but both with great views.

Day 5

More peaceful open countryside today, with good paths and still no people.

It was an easy and enjoyable walk on a nice path beside St Mary’s Loch.

We have been surprised by the varied scenery and how much we are enjoying the walk, it’s been better than expected.

We left the route a small distance to make the most of this lovely well placed café, at the end of St Mary’s Loch. And very nice it was too, especially as it rained while we were sat in the dry.

Loved the walk into Moffat and the scenery going through the Lowther Hills area.

Day 6

We set off in good spirits after another good peaceful night with amazing scenery all around.

This was one of my favourite days with some pretty dramatic views and fun paths.

It was a steep climb up Croft Head, but well worth the walk over it to see the views with this good weather. We had no choice anyway because the alternative route through the woods was closed due to tree felling.

We were glad to finally find somewhere to camp as it was getting late and we had had enough. It had been a long day and the last 4 miles had been on road. So we felt pretty lucky to find somewhere with a comfortable bench to sit on to make coffee and cook tea.

Day 7

A warmer but overcast start to today, but at least it wasn’t raining or windy.

There was quite a bit of ascent and descent today. So luckily the weather had been good, as I could see this being a miserable walk in the wet and wind. Navigation could also be an issue here too.

We made it down to the pub in Wanlockhead in time for a meal and a few pints. This feels a very remote village and very much a locals/community pub. We were made very welcome by all and had a good meal and enjoyable evening chatting with them.

Finally leaving the pub after dark , with head torches on to walk a few hundred yards down the track to pitch our tents.

Day 8

The following day was overcast again but not overly cold or wet, so all was good. Especially remembering this is April and Wanlockhead is Scotland’s highest village at over 400m above sea level.

I walked in the Inov-8 Roclite Pro GTX boots. Read my review here.

My son used the Inov8 RocFly G 390 boots. Read my review here.

There may be signs but there’s not always a obvious path on the ground. We struggled over rough ground and had to use our GPS to find the route on occasions.

This was another great wild camp next to a lovely river, but we did have to leave the path a way and cross the river to get to it.

Day 9

Today the scenery has changed again, so there’s no worries about getting board with the views along the Southern Upland Way. It’s really changed my opinion of the boarders and Southern Uplands. I will no longer just see it as an area that I just have to drive through to get to the Highlands. It’s well worth exploring and has its own unique appeal. I’ll definitely be back.

It was a very enjoyable day walking through remote farmland and forestry and over the rolling hills.

Now we were heading into the stunning Galloway Forest area and really needed to find somewhere to camp before it got dark. We had walked further than intended because we hadn’t been able to find anywhere flat to stop. It worked out well in the end as when we did find somewhere flat to camp, we had an amazing view over Loch Dee. Normally we wouldn’t camp so close together but we were fighting over the only flat spot.

Day 10

We woke to another overcast day and there were threatening black clouds around.

The Galloway Forest is a stunning area and we really, really enjoyed the walking today, lovely paths and views.

This mornings threatening black clouds didn’t come to anything and eventually thinned for some afternoon sunshine.

Another very enjoyable day.

These useful Southern Upland Way signs are spaced at regular intervals along the route.

It felt a shame to be leaving the lovely Galloway Forest Park area, but we were now within 2 days walk of Stranraer. And were looking forward to a shower and the comfy beds in the North West Castle Hotel.

This was probably our worst camp of the walk, it was a bit of a compromise as there wasn’t a lot of clear flat ground around.

Day 11

We slept well again, every night on this walk had been comfortable and quiet. That’s the bonus of damp ground, it is softer to sleep on.

Luckily there hadn’t been much rain for the previous week, because this wouldn’t have been nice any wetter underfoot.

We were again surprised by the forever changing scenery and interest and were in no real rush to finish this walk.

Maybe this was our worst camp spot right next to the path. But at least there was fresh water to filter nearby. And the Southern Upland Way is so quiet, there wasn’t much of a chance anyone would be passing us by.

Gear note – I used the Inov-8 Roclite Pro GTX walking boots. Read my review here. I found them comfortable and perfect for the Southern Upland Way. Max walked in the non-waterproof Inov8 RocFly G 390 boots. Read my review here. They were also good for the walk as we had so little rain, but it was often still wet under foot. So adding waterpoof socks when needed. The 400s gripped slightly better but the 390s have more underfoot cushioning so were nicer on the harder surfaces. We had a fairly dry crossing so a waterproof was not essential and I would have been happier using the 390s. So I don’t recommend one boot over the other, both would be a good choice for the Southern Upland Way. It is just down to personal preference whether you want highly breathable or waterproof footwear.

Day 12

Another good sleep and peaceful camp, with no people about, again.

The weather was also pretty good, with light winds and it was relatively warm for April.

The paths were ok and it was a nice varied and interesting walk all the way to Stranraer.

We had gone off route slightly to walk into Stranraer, as we had booked into the North West Castle Hotel for 2 nights. It allowed dogs (extra £10) and had very reasonably priced rooms considering it was a hotel. Really nice to have a shower and then we went out for a meal in Stranraer. You really appreciate the simple things after 2 weeks wild camping, like a good meal and sleeping in a comfortable bed.

Day 13

Our last day was overcast but thankfully, dry. So we left our rucksacks in the hotel and walked the 13 miles to finish the walk with minimal gear.

The walk to the coast wasn’t too bad, mostly through fields and along quiet roads. But a bit underwhelming after the scenery we’d been enjoying to get here.

It was nice to be walking with out our heavy rucksacks and also good knowing we had a bed sorted for tonight.

The road down to Black Head Lighthouse and the coast path.

Every bit of the walk along the coast path to Portpatrick was stunning, even in less than perfect weather.

Above is the view of both Port Kale and Port Mora.

Very enjoyable walking on the coast path, especially through Port Kale and Port Mora.

We rounded the corner and there was Portpatrick and the end of our walk.

There’s a good bus service from Portpatrick harbour back to Stranraer, which we used back to the Hotel.

The following day, my son had an 11 hour train journey from Stranraer back to South Wales. I continued walking North and had a month or so hiking around Scotland. with no particular plan. Ending up in Edinburgh, from where I joined the John Muir Way to the coast. Following the coast path all the way down to Hull before getting a train home.

The coast path took me past Cockburnspath and the start of the Southern Upland Way, so I had done full circle. This was surprisingly emotional, bring back memories of the amazing walk with my son.

Conclusion

The Southern Upland Way was more varied, interesting and much more enjoyable than expected. It’s among the best long distance walks that I’ve done and especially good for wild camping. Most nights it was easy to find a nice place to pitch the tent.

The paths were mostly in good condition and reasonably well sign posted. But these could be very boggy and the remote sections of the route could be very challenging in cloudy, wet or windy conditions. Because of this I wouldn’t suggest doing this as a first long distance trail.

We found the route surprisingly quiet, there were very few people out walking. We didn’t meet a single person doing the complete Southern Upland Way. The whole route is reasonably dog friendly, but the landowners will be watching you if you’ve a dog with you during lambing season. We were always very careful not to disturb the sheep, but were still followed by the land owners, one even using a drone.

We both enjoyed it more than expected and are considering walking it again in the other direction. So definitely recommend it.

Gear used on the walk

Footwear – Inov-8 Roclite Pro GTX boots. Read my review here. The Inov8 RocFly G 390 boots. Read my review here.

Rucksacks – Granite Gear Blaze 60L rucksack. Read my review here and the ULA Catalyst 75L here.

Tents – the Nordisk Telemark 2 and the MSR Hubba NX 1 person. Read my tent reviews here.

Complete – Gear List

Further reading

Scotland’s Great Trails – Southern Upland Way

LDWA Southern Upland Way

Scotland’s Great Trails

East Highland Way

The Skye Trail

Cape Wrath Trail walk

Scottish National Trail walk

My 11 wild camping rules

My Inov8 Roclite Mid boots review

Wildwalkinguk is a blog run by myself in spare time, and I pay for its running costs myself. The links on this page are to my related posts and also some product links. If you click on these product links and buy what you need, the company will pay a small commission. This money goes towards the costs of hosting the blog. I would be extremely grateful if you could consider using the links when you next need to buy something. Thank you so much for your support. Mark